People are often confused about in-ground and above-ground pools. While both have great perks, you’ll feel great accomplishment and pride when you tell your friends that you put an inground pool kit in your backyard. A house with an in-ground pool is desirable and serves as a social hub for the family and the community.
However, it’s not a simple matter. If you have your ‘ducks’ in a row, you can construct an in-ground pool in about four to five days. However, if not set well, the maintenance costs will be exuberant and you won’t get the chance to enjoy your pool to the fullest. Here are five common blunders that might be made throughout the inground pool construction process.
Unlevelled Pool Walls
Once you’ve spent sufficient time decided the place of the pool, the effort spent ensuring that the walls of your pool are both level and plumb is time well spent. Errors in wall construction, such as uneven heights or parts that tilt inward or outward, may be easily seen and cause structural problems for the wall panels and the pool surface.
It may take some practice to get the hang of using a transit or sight level, but checking each wall panel will be a breeze once you do. You’re going to repeat the action. After the panels are tightened and the bracing is attached, during the rough installation phase.
As soon as the concrete collar has been poured, you should double-check the walls to ensure that the panels have not moved even an inch while the concrete is being poured around the base of the walls. You have an hour to double-check and make changes before the concrete sets.
Floor Unevenness
Without the proper equipment, “eyeballing,” the pool floor may create an uneven surface with low and high areas. Underwater, you may only be able to see this once you turn on the pool light at night. When that happens, it stands out dramatically, creating shadows and emphasizing every flaw.
Use strings to maintain a uniform floor height and demarcate the boundaries between distinct sections of the pool’s surface. Get a second opinion on the matter since some of it is as simple as “eyeballing” it, particularly in the exact center of the pool. The floor may be leveled with the edge of a trowel, or extra material can be moved to fill up low sections before it solidifies.
Premature Liner Cutting
Installing the skimmer, return, and pool light faceplates necessitates cutting in the liner, which is the vinyl that goes within the faceplate. Doing so before the liner has completely stretched might result in leaks or rips at the locations where the screws were inserted.
Pool lights, skimmers, and return drains are less likely to get submerged if the water level is slightly below (or just above) them. One obvious exception is the main drain. After the liner has been vacuumed into place and checked for appropriate positioning, the main drain rings can be installed, the vinyl can be cut to size, and the main drain covers can be put in place.
Before the shallow end’s water level rises over the pool’s bottom, you may start cutting away the step or swim-out parts. While the screws are being inserted on three sides of the step, the liner may be held in place by placing sandbags beneath the step on top of the liner.
Wait until the water level is at or above before installing the faceplates or trim ring for the underwater light and skimmer, and return. It’s easy to do, but some do-it-yourself pool builders rush into it.
Backfilling Is Tested Before the Plumbing
After the pool has been filled with water, the trench leading from the pool to the pool equipment pad may be filled, and the surrounding area backfilled. Backfilling the pool with water pressure and testing the pipes before turning on the pool pump is a good idea.
There’s nothing flashy about the pressure-testing plugs. Make sure there are no leaks in the system by calling your SPP Pool Experts, or if you have a plumber conducting the task, this is standard procedure.
Otherwise, if you have the luxury of time, wait to backfill until after the pool has been filled, at which point you may start up the machinery and give it a thorough once-over before covering the pipes with several feet of dirt and then concrete.
Also, watch for water dripping from the skimmer, returns, lights, or stairs onto the pool wall. Assuming the gaskets were not overlooked, if leakage is detected in these locations, just tightening the screws with a properly sized Phillips head screwdriver should do the trick.
Premature Pool Deck Installation
The pool’s surrounding soils will require time to settle after being backfilled. It is recommended to wait at least 30 days after backfilling and a few rains or waterings for the backfill to settle before placing concrete slabs on top. The pool may have a slanted surface if the deck is poured slowly.
When doing backfill, press the material down with each foot. To elaborate, backfill a foot, tamp it with a mechanical tamper, and so on. Then, sprinkle the whole area for a day or two, tamp it down once it dries, and add 4 to 6 inches of gravel before pouring the concrete for the pool deck. If you use this approach to backfill your pool, you should be able to pour the deck within a week.
Conclusion
In conclusion, installing an inground pool kit can be a great investment for your home, but it’s important to take the necessary precautions to avoid common mistakes. By properly preparing the base, accurately measuring and placing the walls, ensuring correct plumbing installation, carefully handling liner installation, and properly maintaining the pool, you can enjoy your new pool for years to come.
Avoiding these five mistakes will save you time, money, and hassle in the long run. So take your time, do your research, and seek professional help if necessary to ensure a successful inground pool installation.
